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Turned the headlights on and off several times as it was suggested on a ford car audio online forum Turned the ignition key on and off 3 times as it was suggested on a ford car audio online forum Put factory stereo back and got same results with no lights on the instrument panel or climate control panel Took instrument panel out and tested every bulb with a digital multimeter tester and only 1 bulb was out and it was replaced. Tested all fuses and relay from under the hood with a digital multimeter tester and all fuses tested good Tested every fuse by the passenger’s foot rest with a digital multimeter tester and all fuses and relays tested good. This is all that I troubleshooter so I ran out of options and need help please!!Troubleshooting done: All fuses are good including under the hood fuses and relays. The climate control lights and dash lights are not coming on after installing an aftermarket radio.
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The glare from the light tan dashboard top panel has always bothered me & I am thinking of spraying it with flat black vinyl paint to remove the glare, that should be easy with the top panel out of the vehicle. Now that I’ve done all that, I’ll be waiting for the new radio. Once the power point was free of its hole in the dash I was able to pull its plug free. Could not disconnect the 3-wire plug to the power point, so I merely crushed the metal until the defective power point shrank enough to pull out backwards. I removed its fuse out & didn’t use it until I could get around to replacing it.
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It looked OK from the inside, but electrically it was shorted out. In addition the power point below the dash board had burned out years ago when I ran a 12VDC coffeemaker on it, the plug overheated, partly melted, then blew the fuse to the power point, and then I had to extract the distorted plug in pieces just to inspect the power point. I also needed to replace the bulbs on the HVAC control panel and couldn’t bend my wrist properly to twist the bulb holders free. There were plastic tabs and alignment pins at points on the dash panels which simply pulled free with gentle tugging.Īll this dash work did come in handy. Nearly all the dashboard bolt heads were 9/32″, a couple low down near the pedals were 5/16″. Behind the left side of the bracket was a bolt head which faced the front of the vehicle, unlike all the other bolts of the dashboard. In order to do that I had to remove about half of the dash board panels so I could get at the heads of the bolts holding the bracket in. Since I couldn’t remove the radio from its bracket, I removed the bracket with the radio still attached from the dashboard. I also disconnected the battery for the sake of safety. I had no trouble disconnected the wiring to the passenger side airbag control. I put the cut coat hanger wires in to different depths, wiggled them around, sometimes I caught half of a single tab, the radio wobbled in its bracket, but never all 4 parts at once. Pull wire out of radio and bend where the pliers are” I never did figure what that meant. Align pliers just below the upper hole 2. I failed to understand how you cut the wires to align properly with the spring tabs on the radio “1. I am trying to do the same thing on my 2001 F150, my dashboard color is the same as yours, the radio/CD player looks identical to yours, only the part #’s are different. The wire colors were the same for both harnesses.I used the wiring guide on the wiring kit package and the one that came with the new radio.Make sure to wrap your soldered connections with electrical tape or heat shrink tubing.I’ve had trouble in the past with bad crimps on the bullets. I prefer to solder my connections instead of using bullet connectors.The one I used for the F-150 was a Metra 70-1771 wiring kit.I always use a wiring harness when installing a radio.